So last week we had a freak Southern Hemi swell…making 8-10 foot waves. Now in Summer, that’s super weird for Santa Cruz!
I decided that last Thursday would be a great day to surf since I’m technically in training for WOW(Women on Waves). The Thursday swell was declining, waves more manageable, however still incredible waves.
If you follow my blog, you know I’m a dawn patrol surfer, which means to catch a swell like this, I need to be out in the water by 5:30 am. So I diligently got up early and made my way to the beach. By the time I got there, already 30 people in the water! I was shocked!
I walked to see the waves and I found a friend on the rock, who wasn’t suited up. Shes a good surfer, more summer surfer, and she looked frightened. She was nervous to paddle out since her surf buddy already left her.
Being the person I am, I told her to suit up and we will paddle out together. What stuck with me was that I am becoming a better surfer since these conditions didnt even phase me, but I also have become a surfer to help other surfers. Kinda cool 🤙
Btw…The waves were beautiful! About 5 feet, super clean, and the water was WARM! We never have warm water!
I had a blast of a day!