This past week has been incredibly flat! But when you are trying to train, you have to go out anyway. Seriously, the only thing that improves surfing is more surfing.
All in all it was a good surfing week, little crowds, 2-3ft zippy waves and 2.5 hours per session 😁
Then, I decided to go for a run on Saturday. See, my husband has officially lost 75 pounds and to keep us motivated we do these little challenges. Whether its miles running, intensity minutes or number of workouts, these challenges are all in good fun.
Well, since I have been surfing so much my running has taken a back seat, so Saturday I decided to run. And I kept running for 5 miles.
Now, I havent run 5 miles in about a year, so afterwards I was sore, tight, and sleepy. The only thing that is making me feel better is yoga 😁
I’m not sure if running and surfing are a good combination. Followers, what other exercises to you do to accompany surfing?
Visiting the Big Island brought a lot of Hawaiian history to my attention. First piece of history we saw were the Kailoka Petroglyph Fields. Actually, we were staying in a condo right on the fields, so it was easy to walk to. These fields were all over the place, and there was even a 32 mile horse trail filled with petroglyphs.
I enjoyed figuring out what the pictures represented and walking in the volcanic ash. It was totally like walking on another planet!
Happy Saturday readers!
So surfing can be a very selfish sport. I mean, I check the surf report multiple times a day, adjust my schedule to tides and pretty much obsess about my next surf session.
So I found this meme today I wanted to share with everyone from hotswell.com
Happy Valentine’s Day!
So this past week, my husband and I took a vacation to The Big Island in Hawaii. We were also there to celebrate my birthday, which happened to be a BIG birthday. I guess it made sense to go to the BIG island. We decided to stay in Kailua Kona, which is full of lava fields, and it pretty much felt like a different planet.
The Big Island isn’t known for it’s surfing, but you can surf there, I mean there is a coast. It’s just not lined with surf shops like Maui or Oahu. It’s mainly rocky which isn’t a difference for me being a Santa Cruz surfer. I did have something interesting happen to me on my birthday, which I wanted to share. The surf report wasn’t that big, so I wanted to go to our local beach break. It’s a beautiful inlet with somewhat of a beach and comes equipped with lifeguards, so I went to talk to the local surf shop. Now, this isn’t my first time surfing somewhere else, and it’s not my first time surfing in Hawaii. I know the rules, and I’m well aware I’m a guest, but usually I don’t have an issue. I just make casual conversation and mention I’m a Santa Cruz surfer, and that breaks the ice. For those who don’t know, Santa Cruz surfers have a reputation of being SUPER AGGRO. Well, that didn’t work this time. They were pretty much turned off by me from the beginning. They were worried about broken boards and the rocky terrain so they wouldn’t rent me out a board (they also denied others), and just to put icing on my birthday cake, told me to go to Kauai where the “surfer girls” go. Surfer girls in this context was said in a negative way.
In the past, I have written on how “surfer girl” could be a derogatory term if used in such a way, but in the past year, it’s also become a term I really enjoy. The people I surf with use it as a term of endearment, and as multiple FEMALE surfers have said, we have all been called much worse in the water. Needless to say, I didn’t surf on The Big Island, and I wasn’t going to rent a board where I’m not welcome. Now, I didn’t let it ruin my day, and sadly this won’t be the last time I run into this, but it makes me appreciate ALL the surfers I know who believe men and women can surf.
But hey, I can still cross step and noseride on my board right? 🙂
Scrappy Surfing Yogi
So, as most of you know, I’m a Santa Cruz surfer, which means the water is about 50 -58 degrees. A wetsuit is a must because of things like hypothermia. What are not always used are booties and gloves, your feet and hands might get cold but nothing extreme will happen.
So the other day, while I was doing some yoga stretches and dry pop ups it dawned on me; I can feel every part of my foot. I haven’t surfed without booties in Santa Cruz in a long time, and my booties tend to be extra thick and padded. Great for ankle support, but not great for feeling your feet.
So, today was a surfing day. The swell was fantastic! 5-6 feet and most beaches, long period swell ans chunky powerful waves. We’re gonna get hit with an XXL swell by end of the weekend (maybe even Mavericks will happen next week). With the weather 65 degrees, I decided to go without booties. I wanted to see if it hurts or helps my surfing ability.
Guess what? Totally did better without the booties. Of course the water was freezing, but I could really turn into the wave. And not to mention after surfing my feet were freezing! Guess that’s why Uggs were invented 😁
Scrappy Surfing Yogi
For years, I have been storing my surfboards in not great locations in our homes. Against walls, one the ground, in bags, and the places go on and on. I even kept one in my car for awhile.
I desperately needed a surf rack. My loving creative husband decided to build me one instead of buying an expensive wooden rack.
He took some spare wood we have (he’s making a table), built a box against our garage wall and presto surf rack.
I put insulated cardboard on the bottom on the box to keep my boards safe. I still want to add sections to the box for each board and secure it better to the wall (you know earthquakes) but it’s working for now!
Scrappy Surfing Yogi
Well, this holiday didn’t really go as planned. My husband and I were supposed to be on our way to the mountains, but since our puppy got sick, we stayed at home. At least, she is doing much better!
We decided to redo our holiday plans by relaxing at home, cooking and baking holiday food, and we treated ourselves to some holiday shopping.
Yesterday, I was treated to a holiday surprise from craftysurf.com! See the pic below 🎄🎁
I love surfing Santa’s this time of year!
Wishing all my readers a very happy holiday!
Scrappy Surfing Yogi